What I have learned so far is that the conditions under which R-values are determined for insulation, particularly fiberglass or rock wool, don’t exist in the real world.
The insulation is locked in an air tight metal box with 0 humidity in it. Like that is ever going to happen in your house. Then they heat up one side and wait for the other side to get to the same temperature. Based on the time it takes and the thickness of the insulation, and some other factors, an R-value is determined.
One other little thing they forgot to mention…fiberglass insulation loses 30% of it’s effectiveness with as little as 1.5% moisture (humidity). And moisture makes heat move faster.
So lets say you live in the Midwest and your fiberglass insulation has 20% humidity from the air in the winter. The moisture is sucking the heat from your house through the insulation into the cold. R-13 insulation in a 2×4 stud walls is actually R-9.1, plus air leakage, furnace inefficiency, normal air changes, leaky windows and doors, etc. The DOE says 30% of a homes heat is lost through walls, ceilings and floors. You good with that?
One solution is a weatherization coating like Super Therm. Yeah, I know, a funny name. Regardless of the name, it works really well. It’s been tested and certified and an air barrier, water barrier, moisture barrier and heat barrier, among others. It’s Energy Star approved and been used by some of the largest organizations in the world (think Nissan and the US Government). It has a history of performing well for a long time.
Typical savings range from 20% – 60% a month depending on your conditions. Your ROI can be in as little as one year or possibly 5 or 6yrs, again depending on your circumstances. After that it starts making you money.
It’s time to re-think how to keep your house warm. Traditional insulation is letting us down. Isn’t it time to bring insulation into the 21st century? Visit www.betterpainting.net for more information.